Himself knows only too well my limitations with my duff knee (damaged out walking in Scotland in 2011) and is wise enough to know what I can and can't do. He also knows that I am also overprotective about re-hurting it or damaging my other.
So when he suggested I climb down then back up this ... understandably I had a bit of a wobble (read as melt down) ... please note the distant view between the rock cleft there is evidence of farming (lines on the ground) and on them are sheep ... no I can't see them either - that is how far down they are ...
Let me start from the beginning.
The skies were grey and the threat of rain was very real, but we were camping on Skye and so far, despite the heavy cloud we'd managed to avoid getting wet. Himself had planned a 6km round walk to the end the Trottinish Peninsula and back, where the final ness - Rubha Hunish was 90 - 100 metres below the cliffs. He reassured me that we would stop at the top and only attempt the descent if I thought I could do it. (No pressure then).
We followed the stony track towards the deserted village of Erisco - a visible reminder of Highland clearances. The path traversed the high ground avoiding the wet and boggy sections and we made brilliant progress with wonderful views of the coast and the sea all around us.
We found the old coastguard look-out, now converted to a delightful bothy. The view from the old command window was outstanding and I sat perched on the high seat for a moment or two and took in the vast horizon. The sea and the sky seemed to melt into each other while the clouds continue to roll and turn menacingly. Inside the bothy it was warm, dry and out of the biting wind. We found ourselves a quiet corner outside the building and sheltered from the breeze as we sipped tea and nibbled biscuits. Himself suggested (in an offhand casual sort of way) that he'd like to look at the access route off the steep section down to the ness. I (in a guardedly sort of way) agreed. This was the view I was greeted by at the top of the path ... it just drops off the edge!
No, I don't know why I agreed to go down. It was steep, very very steep.
If you squint very closely behind Eldest and his red rucksack, at the top of the path just below the col (dip) you will see a family of four on their way up. We'd met them earlier near the bothy and their young daughters had made a fuss of Miss Moss. Himself then saw them later down on the ness and reasoned that if the girls had gone down and back up and lived to tell the tale ... then so could I.
Once on the ness and my heart had calmed and my knee had survived - a magical world began to reveal itself. Stone archways with feet plunged deeply into the inky waters and high rock monoliths towered up behind us. Sea stacks stood like solemn sentinels with startling evidence that they had been once climbed.
Suddenly on the horizon, speeding towards us, a squally shower had us scurrying for shelter in a tumbling jagged rocky cleft. We'd brought two large umbrellas that, once up and with our backs to the stone wall, gave us a wonderful refuge where we drank tea and watched the sea merge with the clouds.
The rain faded and we emerged from our shelter and continued walking around the ness. Moss played and played, running running running and splashing in the lochans and tarns. Her tail and beaming smile highlighting how happy she was. I kept looking at our return route - the cliffs were there waiting for me ...
I climbed back up, I climbed so much better that I had ever dreamed or hoped. At the top, puffing for breath and mentally giving my shaky duff knee a silent thank you, I caught Himself smiling at me proudly :)
Once home back at the camp site, the rain returned but it didn't matter, my knee and I were feeling suitably chuffed with ourselves. We were drinking huge mugs of steaming tea and munching shortbread - so we didn't care that it was raining - it had been a brilliant day :)
oh what a beautiful adventure... and i got to see it all from africa in your magnificently captured moments!
ReplyDeletethank you for sharing with us - such a treat!
It's nice to surprise yourself once in a while. Lovely photos - wild places are good for the soul.
ReplyDeleteCathy x
Many congrats - that's quite an achievement for anyone, regardless of the dodgy knee and it looks like a splendid walk. I quite understnd how you need to 'protect', I feel the same way about my shoulders.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous to see Moss developing - she must have been giddy with the thrill of it all. Does she snore loudly in the confines of a tea & shortbread-filled caravan :)
How wonderful; well worth the climb down. Do pat Himself on the back (from me!) for persuading you to go down. I know how you feel about your knee so can sympathise with you as I have a slight dodgy set of knees! MM seems to be having a whale of a time!
ReplyDeleteWell done knee - I would have baulked at the thought of that climb down and up again. Does not seem to have bothered Moss, she looks so happy. What interesting rock formations were visible once you reached the bottom. xx
ReplyDeleteJust looked at your pictures again - is Moss sporting a bandage on her front left leg?
ReplyDeleteJust had to read this again! Fab post and just love the old coastguard's hut. Presume Miss Moss got down the slope (and up) with ease!
ReplyDeletewhat a truly wonderful adventure x
ReplyDeleteWell done you, being brave enough to tackle something you'd been worried about for some time. I can't believe you were on Skye in 2011. So were we, round about June/July. Love your photos and I'm shattered and going to bed and get some long overdue sleep. Thanks for the pics and take care.
ReplyDeletewell done!
ReplyDeleteThis is so beautiful I started crying.
ReplyDelete